Abruzzo Food Experience

Abruzzo Food Experience: A Journey Through Tradition and Taste

The Abruzzo Food Experience, organized by the Camera di Commercio di Chieti Pescara and Consorzio Abruzzo Travelling, offers a deep dive into the authentic culinary and cultural riches of the Abruzzo region. This Fam Trip showcases the heart of Abruzzo, blending beautiful landscapes, historical sites, and culinary excellence. Here is a detailed account of the journey, highlighting the must-visit places, exquisite restaurants, and exceptional wineries encountered along the way.

Day 1: Evening in Vasto

The tour began with a captivating evening visit to the coastal town of Vasto, a gem known for its historical charm and stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. After a brief exploration of the old town, we headed for dinner at the renowned restaurant La Votte a Mare, where we indulged in two local delicacies:

• Brodetto alla Vastese: A traditional fish stew made with a variety of fresh local seafood, tomatoes, and herbs, reflecting the deep maritime culture of Vasto.
• Seppie Farcite con Ventricina: Stuffed cuttlefish with ventricina, a spicy pork sausage typical of the region, adding a burst of flavor.

These dishes were beautifully paired with a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a light and fruity rosé wine with a slight tang, perfect for accompanying seafood.

Ventricina is one of the most prized and distinctive cured meats of Italy, specifically originating from the Abruzzo and Molise regions. It’s a traditional pork sausage that stands out for its rich flavors, rustic production methods, and its connection to the region’s agricultural history. There are two main types of ventricina: Ventricina del Vastese, from the coastal and inland areas near Vasto in Abruzzo, and Ventricina Teramana, from the area around Teramo. Both have their own unique characteristics, but they share a deep-rooted tradition in Abruzzese cuisine.

Ventricina del Vastese

Ventricina del Vastese, the more famous of the two, is considered one of the finest cured meats in Italy. Unlike many sausages, which are made with finely ground meat, ventricina del Vastese uses large chunks of lean pork, particularly from the leg, shoulder, and loin. This meat is then carefully seasoned, mixed, and left to cure for months, resulting in a flavorful and robust product.

Key Characteristics:

• Ingredients: The main ingredients are chunks of pork, sweet and hot red pepper, fennel seeds, garlic, and salt. The use of local peppers gives the sausage its distinctive flavor and vibrant red color.
• Preparation: After mixing the meat with spices, it is traditionally stuffed into a pig’s bladder (hence the name “ventricina,” which comes from “ventre,” or belly in Italian) or into large casings. It is then hung to cure for several months, often in a cool, airy space, which allows the flavors to deepen and the fat to develop its signature melt-in-your-mouth texture.
• Flavor: Ventricina del Vastese is known for its spicy and savory flavor, with a delicate balance of heat from the peppers and aromatic complexity from the fennel seeds and garlic. It has a firm texture due to the large meat chunks, but as it ages, it softens slightly, releasing more of its rich, porky flavors.

Uses:

Ventricina del Vastese is often sliced thin and eaten as part of a charcuterie platter, but it can also be used in cooking, particularly in stuffed dishes like seppie farcite con ventricina (stuffed cuttlefish) or in brodetto alla Vastese (a traditional seafood stew). It can also be spread on crusty bread when more aged, as its fat becomes soft and buttery.

Ventricina Teramana

Ventricina Teramana differs from the Vastese version in that it is more finely ground and less spicy. It’s also typically made with a higher fat content, often including lard or pancetta in the mix.

Key Characteristics:

• Ingredients: Finely ground pork, seasoned with garlic, black pepper, and sometimes white wine or orange peel to add a subtle aromatic profile.
• Preparation: Like its counterpart, ventricina Teramana is also stuffed into natural casings and left to cure. The curing process is shorter, resulting in a sausage that is softer and less intensely flavored than Ventricina del Vastese.
• Flavor: This version is milder, with more subtle seasoning, allowing the natural flavor of the pork to shine through. The use of black pepper instead of the hot red pepper used in Vastese gives it a more delicate, balanced taste.

Uses:

Ventricina Teramana is often sliced and eaten as a snack or appetizer, but it also finds its way into local pasta dishes, such as sagne e fagioli (a type of pasta and bean stew). The fat content of this version makes it ideal for cooking, as it melts into dishes, providing richness.

Traditional Production Methods

The preparation of ventricina is a labor-intensive process, often tied to family traditions that have been passed down through generations. In the past, ventricina was produced in the winter months during the pig slaughter season (known as the “maialatura”), when families would gather to butcher the pigs and preserve the meat for the year. The natural cold of the season helped in the curing process, which could take several months, allowing the flavors to develop slowly and naturally.

Today, many small, artisanal producers still adhere to these time-honored methods, using locally raised pigs and hand-cutting the meat. This dedication to tradition is what gives ventricina its high quality and rich, authentic taste.

Ventricina’s Cultural Significance

Ventricina holds a special place in Abruzzo’s cultural heritage. It is not just a food product but a symbol of the region’s agricultural traditions, where every part of the pig is used and nothing is wasted. In fact, ventricina is often described as “the king of Abruzzese cured meats,” a testament to the pride locals take in its production. The process of making ventricina is a social activity that historically brought families and communities together, reflecting the close-knit nature of Abruzzo’s rural life.

In recent years, ventricina has gained international recognition, with artisanal producers exporting it abroad. However, it remains deeply tied to its place of origin, and visiting the local markets and producers of Abruzzo offers the most authentic experience of this extraordinary cured meat.

In conclusion, ventricina is a must-try for any food lover exploring the Abruzzo region, offering a true taste of the area’s rich culinary history and traditions. Whether enjoyed on its own, paired with local wines, or incorporated into traditional dishes, ventricina is a shining example of the artisanal excellence that defines Abruzzese cuisine.

The evening ended with a relaxing stay at Hotel Acquario in Vasto Marina, a comfortable 3-star establishment with direct access to the beach, a lush garden, and a swimming pool. The hotel’s breakfast the next morning was a feast of homemade jams, traditional cakes and tarts, and refreshing seasonal fruit juices.

Day 2: Historical Sites and Wine Tasting

The day began with a visit to the majestic Palazzo D’Avalos, an architectural masterpiece in Vasto offering insights into the local history and culture.

Lunch followed at Cantine Fontefico, one of the region’s prestigious wineries, where we enjoyed not only a meal but a guided wine tasting. The standout wines here were:

• Trebbiano d’Abruzzo: A dry, white wine with citrus notes.
• The “fossimatto” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore, with its unique color, will catch your eyes first and then will kidnap your mouth with currants and raspberries notes
• Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: A robust red with hints of cherry and spice, a signature wine of the region.

In the afternoon, we were enchanted by the spiritual beauty of the Abbazia di San Giovanni in Venere, a serene abbey perched on a hill with sweeping views of the coastline. A guided tour brought to life the rich history of this medieval monastery.

As the evening drew near, we explored the fascinating world of the Trabocco Punta Tufano, a traditional fishing platform unique to the Abruzzo coast. Here, we learned about the origins and evolution of these ancient structures, once vital for the local fishing industry. Dinner was a delightful affair, featuring a tasting of Giocondo olive oil, followed by local seafood dishes.

The night was spent at Hotel Serena Majestic in Montesilvano, providing us with comfort after a long day of exploration.

Day 3: Nature and Tradition

The third day took us deeper into the natural beauty of Abruzzo, starting with a visit to the Gole di San Martino and the pristine Sorgenti del Verde. These natural wonders were followed by lunch at Ristorante La Macina in Pennadimonte, where local ingredients were the stars of the meal.

In the afternoon, we made a brief stop at the Sacrario Militare Andrea Bafile, a war memorial commemorating local heroes. The next stop was Guardiagrele, a picturesque town known for its craftsmanship and traditional sweets. We visited the historical Pasticceria Palmerio, where we tasted the iconic Zinne delle Monache, a soft and sweet pastry shaped like a nun’s breast, filled with cream and encased in a delicate layer of sponge.

Back at the hotel, we prepared for dinner at La Cantinetta del Colle in Montesilvano, where the culinary experience continued with local specialties and exceptional wines.

Day 4: Pecorino di Farindola and More Wine

On the fourth day, we visited the Consorzio del Pecorino di Farindola, renowned for its unique cheese made with ewe’s milk and rennet from pigs—a rare and ancient technique. We indulged in a tasting of this distinctive cheese, along with salsiccia, as part of a traditional “sdijuno” (mid-morning snack).

In the Abruzzo region, “sdijuno” is a traditional term that refers to a mid-morning snack, often enjoyed after an early start to the day. This unique practice comes from a time when rural life involved early rising and hard physical labor, meaning a substantial snack was needed to sustain energy until lunch.

Unlike a light snack, sdijuno is quite hearty and can resemble a second breakfast or an early lunch. It often includes rich, savory items like:

• Salsiccia: Traditional Abruzzese sausages made from pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, and sometimes fennel seeds.
• Pecorino di Farindola: A distinct and flavorful sheep’s milk cheese made in the Farindola region, which is aged and has a slightly spicy taste, thanks to the use of pig rennet—a rare and ancient technique.
• Bread: A crusty, country-style loaf, often made with local grains, is a staple to accompany the cheese and meats.
• Olives and olive oil: High-quality, local olive oil, like Giocondo, often features in sdijuno, either for dipping bread or as part of the preparation of other dishes.
• Sometimes, wine is also included, especially during agricultural periods or festive times, reinforcing the communal and celebratory aspect of the sdijuno.

The concept of sdijuno reflects a communal lifestyle where sharing food is a social and cultural activity, bringing people together after the early morning work shift. It’s a simple but fulfilling moment that celebrates local products and the culinary heritage of Abruzzo. While modern life has changed some aspects of daily routines, sdijuno still holds a special place, especially during agricultural festivals or in rural areas where traditional practices are maintained.

A guided tour of the historic town of Penne followed, leading us to Cantine Contesa, where we were treated to another round of wine tasting. Here, the spotlight was on the rich, full-bodied Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, one of the finest reds in the region.

Abruzzo is one of Italy’s hidden gems when it comes to wine, offering a wide range of unique and high-quality wines that are gaining international recognition. The region’s diverse climate, with its mix of mountain and coastal influences, along with its rich, varied soils, creates the perfect conditions for producing expressive wines that reflect the character of the land. Let’s explore some of the most important wines from Abruzzo and what makes them stand out.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – The Flagship Red

The most famous and widely produced wine in Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is made from the Montepulciano grape, which thrives in the region’s hilly terrain. Not to be confused with the Tuscan wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (which uses Sangiovese grapes), this robust red is one of Italy’s most popular wines.

• Tasting Notes: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo typically boasts deep ruby color and bold flavors of dark cherry, plum, and spices like black pepper and licorice. It often has soft tannins and a smooth, velvety finish, making it versatile for pairing with various foods, especially hearty dishes like roasted meats, stews, and aged cheeses.
• Aging Potential: While many versions are designed to be enjoyed young, some high-quality Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines can age for several years, developing more complexity with time, including notes of leather, tobacco, and earth.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is produced across four provinces: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, and L’Aquila. The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG is considered the best expression of this variety, offering more structured and elegant wines.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo – The Distinctive Rosé

While many regions have their versions of rosé, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is truly unique. It’s made from the same Montepulciano grapes used for the red wine but produced with minimal skin contact, giving it a lighter color and softer tannins.

• Tasting Notes: Cerasuolo is a deeply colored rosé, often boasting vibrant pink or cherry hues. The wine is fresh, with notes of red fruits like strawberry, cherry, and raspberry, but it retains some of the structure and body of a red wine. There’s also a hint of herbs and almonds, which adds to its complexity.
• Pairing: This rosé is versatile enough to be enjoyed with everything from seafood dishes, such as grilled octopus, to pizza, pasta, and light meat dishes. Its acidity and freshness make it perfect for summer meals.

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – The Classic White

One of Italy’s most widely planted white grapes, Trebbiano, finds an excellent expression in Abruzzo’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. The wine is typically dry and refreshing, known for its simplicity but capable of great elegance when made by top producers.

• Tasting Notes: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is pale straw yellow in color with a nose of citrus, green apple, and subtle floral notes. On the palate, it’s light to medium-bodied with crisp acidity and flavors of lemon, pear, and sometimes almond or minerality.
• Pairing: Its refreshing nature makes it an excellent pairing with seafood, light salads, and soft cheeses. It’s also ideal for sipping on warm summer days.

Some of the best producers have proven that Trebbiano d’Abruzzo can age beautifully, with wines taking on richer, honeyed, and nutty characteristics over time.

Pecorino – A Rising Star

Though once nearly extinct, Pecorino is a grape native to central Italy that has been rediscovered and is now being celebrated for its unique qualities. In Abruzzo, Pecorino thrives in higher-altitude vineyards, where the cooler temperatures help preserve its natural acidity.

• Tasting Notes: Pecorino wines are known for their bright acidity and mineral backbone, with flavors of citrus, white peach, green apple, and herbs. There’s often a slight salinity or chalkiness to the wine, reflecting its terroir.
• Pairing: The wine’s fresh acidity and herbal notes make it a great companion to seafood dishes, especially those involving shellfish or white fish. It also works well with grilled vegetables and goat cheese.

Passerina – The Aromatic White

Another native grape making a comeback is Passerina, a variety that produces fresh, aromatic white wines. Like Pecorino, Passerina benefits from Abruzzo’s mountainous climate and is often grown in higher elevations.

• Tasting Notes: Passerina wines are typically light and crisp, with floral aromas and flavors of yellow fruits, such as peach and apricot, along with hints of tropical fruits and herbs. The wine is often dry, with lively acidity and a clean, refreshing finish.
• Pairing: Passerina is perfect for lighter dishes like salads, seafood, or soft cheeses. It’s also delightful as an aperitif due to its fresh and aromatic profile.

Abruzzo’s Sparkling Wines

While Abruzzo is not widely known for sparkling wine, several producers are experimenting with Metodo Classico sparkling wines, especially from Pecorino and Trebbiano grapes. These wines are gaining recognition for their elegance and balance, with fine bubbles, delicate fruit notes, and refreshing acidity.

The Terroir of Abruzzo

The terroir of Abruzzo plays a vital role in the quality and distinctiveness of its wines. The region is bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Apennine Mountains to the west, creating a variety of microclimates. Coastal vineyards benefit from cool sea breezes, while higher-altitude vineyards, especially those around the Gran Sasso mountain range, enjoy cooler temperatures that preserve acidity and enhance complexity in the wines.

The soils vary from calcareous and clay to limestone, allowing different expressions of the same grape varieties. Winemakers in Abruzzo are committed to sustainable and organic farming practices, making the most of their region’s natural diversity. Abruzzo’s wines are a reflection of the region’s rugged beauty, traditional culture, and commitment to quality. Whether you’re savoring a bold Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a refreshing Cerasuolo, or a crisp Trebbiano, each glass tells the story of the land, the people, and the deep-rooted traditions that make Abruzzo one of Italy’s most exciting wine regions to explore. Whether enjoyed in the rolling hills of the region or exported around the world, Abruzzo wines are well worth seeking out.

The day concluded in Pescara, where we strolled across the iconic Ponte del Mare before heading to the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo. The evening’s program included a delightful dinner with a live performance, a fitting way to wrap up a day filled with cultural and culinary discoveries.

Day 5: Meeting with Local Operators

The final day was dedicated to networking with local tourism operators, where we discussed the region’s potential for attracting more visitors to experience the vibrant combination of history, nature, and gastronomy that Abruzzo offers.

This Abruzzo Food Experience was an unforgettable journey through the region’s rich culture, spectacular landscapes, and most importantly, its remarkable food and wine. Each stop on the trip provided a deeper appreciation for the traditions and flavors that make Abruzzo a must-visit destination for food lovers and travelers alike.